Hello, fellow crocheters! Today, I’m thrilled to share a delightful project that combines delicate beauty with everyday practicality: a lacy crochet headband. This pattern is one of my favorites because it’s so quick to work up, making it perfect for those times you need a thoughtful handmade gift in a hurry or just want a satisfying weekend project for yourself.
What I particularly love about this headband is its airy openwork texture. It’s created with a clever “brick” mesh effect that looks intricate but is surprisingly simple to master. The lightweight feel makes it comfortable for all-day wear, and the elegant design adds a lovely touch to any outfit, whether you’re going casual or dressing up. Plus, with options for different widths and closures, you can truly make it your own. It’s a fantastic way to keep your hair neatly in place while adding a touch of handmade charm!
Lacy Crochet Headband Crochet Pattern
Materials
- Yarn: DK weight cotton yarn (e.g., YarnArt Jeans) or any similar cotton, bamboo, silk, or mercerized cotton
- Hook: 2.0 mm crochet hook (or a hook slightly smaller than what you usually use for this yarn to keep chains neat)
- Other:
- Yarn needle for weaving in ends
- Scissors
- Optional: E8000 glue (or similar) for extra security at ends
- Optional: Small button (if you choose the button closure option instead of long ties)
Finished Size
- Width (6 row version): approx. 6–7 cm (2.5–2.75 in)
- Width (9 row wider version): approx. 9–10 cm (3.5–4 in)
- Length: adjusted to head size; pattern examples use long ties made of 60 chains at each end so the band can be tied at the back of the head.
Yarn Information
This pattern is designed for DK weight cotton yarn, but you can also use similar fibers like bamboo, silk, or mercerized cotton. Mercerized cotton is a great choice as it gives a slight shine and crisp definition to the stitches, really highlighting the lacy brick pattern.
Hook and Tools
You’ll need a 2.0 mm crochet hook, or a size slightly smaller than what you’d typically use for your chosen yarn to ensure neat, firm chains. A yarn needle for weaving in ends and a pair of scissors are essential. For an extra secure finish, you might want E8000 glue or a similar adhesive. If you prefer a button closure, have a small button ready!
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- ch sp – chain space
- rep – repeat
Pattern Notes
- This pattern is chain-based and adjustable, making it suitable for various head sizes and desired widths.
- The project is worked in rows.
- The pattern uses the “third loop” or “back bump” of the starting chain for neater edges and a more stable foundation.
- The “brick/mesh effect” is created by alternating sections of 4-chain arches and 9-chain long arches, anchored by double crochet posts. The 9-chain arches shift their position on alternating rows to create a staggered brick look.
- The chain 4 at the beginning of Row 1 counts as 1 dc + ch 1.
Gauge (Approximate)
Exact gauge is not critical for this adjustable, chain-based pattern. Use this as a reference:
- With DK cotton and a 2.0 mm hook:
- 10 chains ≈ 3 cm (1.2 in)
- 10 rows of pattern ≈ 6–7 cm (2.5–2.75 in)
If your fabric is too loose, use a smaller hook; if too tight, use a larger one.
Special Techniques
Third Loop / Back Bump of Chain
When working into the foundation chain, you will use the back bump:
- Look at a chain from the top, and you’ll see a “V.”
- Flip the chain to the back; you’ll see a single bump (the back bump).
- Work into this back bump (“third loop”) for neater edges and a more stable structure.
Brick / Mesh Effect
This pattern creates a lacy brick-like mesh by:
- Alternating sections of 4-chain arches and 9-chain long arches, anchored by double crochet posts (US terms).
- On some rows, the 9-chain arches are centered above lower arches; on others, they shift, creating a staggered “brick” look.
Instructions
To Begin:
- Make a slip knot.
- Chain the desired length (e.g., 127 ch for adults as in the pattern), working loosely but evenly.
- Work all subsequent stitches of Row 1 into the back bump (third loop) of the chains.
Row 1 – Base Mesh Setup: (This row creates a lacy mesh: 4 ch arches separated by skipped chains, all worked into the third loop of the foundation chain.)
- Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc + ch 1).
- Working into the fourth chain from the hook, in the back bump: Sl st into that bump.
- Ch 4, skip next 4 ch, in the 5th ch (back bump) work 1 sc.
- Repeat the above step along the chain until you have reached the portion you want to reserve for the center lacy section. (In the pattern, about 15 chains are left at the far end for the final mesh section, using the middle part for long arches.)
- At the start of the middle section: Ch 4, skip 4 ch, and in the 5th ch (back bump) work 1 dc.
- Central section (long arches): Ch 9, skip 9 chains, in the 10th ch (back bump) work 1 dc. Repeat this step across until 15 chains remain before the end of the foundation chain.
- Final small arches (mirroring the first side): From the point where 15 chains remain: Ch 4, skip 4 ch, in the 5th ch (back bump) work 1 sc. Repeat as needed so that the final section mirrors the start.
- At the last segment, work a sl st into the last chain to anchor.
You now have: Small 4-chain arches at both ends and a central section of long 9-chain arches anchored with dc posts.
Row 2 – First Brick Shift: (This row begins shaping the brick-like pattern above the base.)
- Ch 2, turn your work.
- Sl st into the first sl st (or the first arch connection) of the previous row.
- Ch 4, sc into sc of previous row (over the first small arch).
- Ch 4, dc into dc of previous row (still staying in the small arch edge section).
- Ch 4, dc into the first dc of the central 9-chain arch section, catching the diagonal strand.
- Now, to begin “shifting” the bricks: Ch 4, and instead of chaining 9 immediately, place a dc into the 5th chain of the next 9-chain arch (insert hook under the full V of that chain space, leaving the back loop behind for neatness).
- After this first shift, continue across the central section: Ch 9, in the next 9-chain arch, dc in the 5th chain of that arch. Repeat this until you reach the last central arch.
- At the final central arch, set up the small arch edge: Ch 4, dc into the last dc on that side.
- Edge to finish the row: Ch 4, sc into sc of the previous row. Ch 4, sl st into the final edge sl st.
Row 3 – Second Brick Row: (This row repositions the 9-chain arches to align differently, forming the brick pattern.)
- Ch 2, turn.
- Sl st into the first sl st of the row below (as you did previously).
- Ch 4, sc on top of sc of previous row.
- Ch 4, dc on top of dc of previous row.
- Ch 4, dc on top of dc at the start of the central section, remembering to catch the slanted strand.
- Now we place 9-chain arches across the central section again, but positioned to keep the alternation: Ch 9, dc in the 5th chain of the next 9-chain arch (or of the ch 9 space, taking the full “wheat” V), leaving the back loop behind. Repeat across the central section.
- At the far end, mirror the start: Ch 4, dc on dc, Ch 4, sc on sc, Ch 4, sl st into the edge sl st.
You now see clear brick-like rectangles forming in the central area.
Rows 4–6 (or more) – Continue Pattern:
Repeat the logic of Rows 2 and 3:
- Edge sections always:
- Ch 4, sc on sc
- Ch 4, dc on dc
- Central section alternates between:
- One row where you first do a 4 ch offset then dc in the 5th chain of the next arch
- Next row where you directly build 9 ch arches on top of existing arches
You are free to stop when:
- 6 pattern rows are complete for a standard width
- 8–9 pattern rows for a wider headband
Ties / Band Ends
You have two main options for finishing the ends of your headband:
Option A – Long Ties
- At one short end: From the last edge sl st, ch 60.
- Turn and work back along these chains: Work 1 sl st in the back bump (third loop) of each chain back to the headband edge. Sl st into the edge to secure.
- Repeat on the other end: Ch 60, sl st back into the back bump of each, sl st to edge.
This yields two slender, slightly stretchy cords you can tie behind the head.
Option B – Button Loop
- Instead of a long tie, ch 5–8 at one end (depending on button size).
- Join with a sl st to the same point to form a small loop.
- Work 1 round of sl st or sc around the loop for thickness, if desired.
- Sew a small button to the opposite end of the headband to close.
Finishing
- Weave in ends: Use a yarn needle to weave tails into the stitches neatly.
- Optional glue reinforcement: Apply a tiny dot of E8000 (or similar) at the main knots/ends, then lay the yarn flat over it. Let it dry fully; this adds security against unraveling.
- Block (optional): Lightly steam or wet block to open up the lace pattern and straighten edges.
Olivia’s Tips
This lacy headband is such a joy to make, and I have a few tips to help you along the way! When working your foundation chain, try to keep your tension consistent but not too tight. This will make it much easier to work into those back bumps in Row 1. If you’re new to working into the back bump, don’t worry – it gets easier with practice, and it really does make for a beautiful, finished edge. For those who want to explore different looks, playing with color can be fun; solid colors truly highlight the intricate brick lace, while a variegated yarn can give a playful effect. And remember, blocking, even if it’s just a light steam, can make a huge difference in opening up the lace and giving your headband a polished, professional look. Enjoy creating this lovely accessory!